Exfoliation was once a niche topic, whispered about in hushed tones by those strictly in the know. But today, exfoliation has gone mainstream. However, it’s also been on a rollercoaster of popularity. From the rise of ‘90s harsh, walnut-based scrubs (and its notable backlash) to the subsequent rise of chemical exfoliants, exfoliation has finally hit its stride. Why? Because of the formulation of the best Japanese facial exfoliators that actually work, plain and simple. The benefits of exfoliating are significant, clinically proven, and game-changing. We uncover exactly what exfoliation can do for your skin and how to start incorporating it into your daily skincare routine today.
The Importance Of Exfoliation
Precisely why does everyone adore exfoliation? Before we dive into every single way the step can benefit the skin, let’s first define it. Exfoliating is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of your skin using a chemical or physical exfoliant. Chemical exfoliants are acids that dissolve the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. The most common types of chemical exfoliants are AHA, BHA, and PHA. Physical exfoliants, or exfoliating scrubs, mechanically buff off dead skin cells. They often contain, as the name suggests, physical ingredients, like sugars or rice bran, to buff skin. Using Japanese beauty tools, such as a silk washcloth or brush, also count as a physical exfoliant, too.
Exfoliating Benefits
The benefits of exfoliation run deep. When you exfoliate your skin, the process of desquamation—aka your skin’s natural exfoliation process—accelerates. By using an exfoliant to remove the dulling, dead skin cells, you remove the stubborn outer layer, thus allowing for a bevy of benefits. Here are all the proven benefits of exfoliating.
Softer, Smoother Skin
As we age, it’s been shown that the epidermal cellular turnover rate slows down, resulting in a buildup of dead skin cells and giving the skin an appearance of roughness, dryness, enlarged pores, and dullness. Sloughing off dull and rough skin via exfoliation promotes cellular renewal, notes one academic paper. This process naturally promotes softer, smoother, and even more “translucent” looking skin.
Increased Hydration
Aggressive exfoliation can damage the skin and its barrier. But thoughtful exfoliation actually can increase the skin’s hydration levels. Some exfoliants can even help to strengthen the skin’s barrier function altogether.
Reduction of Fine Lines and Wrinkles
It’s been shown that exfoliation can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, too. Not only by eliminating layers of dead skin cells for a more rejuvenated appearance, but chemical exfoliants can stimulate elastin and collagen production, helping to stave off the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Brightening
Exfoliation has been linked with an overall brighter complexion and a reduction of hyperpigmentation, but has even shown promise in more stubborn cases of melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Studies have linked chemical exfoliation with an “improvement” and perhaps even complete reduction of both melasma and PIH in some cases (although more studies are needed for more severe cases).
Decreased Blemishes
Chemical exfoliation has especially shown benefits for unclogging pores and addressing blemishes. Many studies have noted that these exfoliants are “very effective” when used in skincare routines that clear acne. This is in part because some research demonstrates certain chemical exfoliants can weaken acne-causing bacteria by disrupting bacterial cell membranes.
More Effective Skincare Routine
If all of these benefits weren’t impressive enough, exfoliation also helps the active ingredients in the rest of your skincare routine to work more efficiently and penetrate the skin more deeply. This is because it clears away the debris and dead skin cells, allowing the formulas to be more readily absorbed.
Exfoliation 101
These exfoliation results are deeply impressive, but can only be achieved after learning how to exfoliate your face responsibly. The American Academy of Dermatology has a few tips to keep in mind before reaching for your exfoliant.
Assess Your Skincare
Some medications and products don’t interact well with exfoliating, leading to skin sensitivity, dryness, and irritation. The AAD specifically flags prescription retinoid creams and products containing retinol or benzoyl peroxide as products that can interfere with exfoliants. Check with your dermatologist to be safe and consider switching to a retinol-alternative. We discovered that plant-based retinol alternatives, like upcycled cranberry extract and sea fennel found in The Silk Serum, can act on the same factors as retinol to support natural skin turnover and give the look of collagen-rich skin—without the irritation and negative product interaction.
Consider Your Skin Type
Consider your skin type first and foremost. With that knowledge, the AAD suggests selecting the best exfoliant for your skin’s individual needs. A skincare routine for dry or sensitive skin should include a mild exfoliant or just a simple tool, like a washcloth. A skincare routine for oily skin could include chemical or physical exfoliants. However, no matter your skin type, be gentle. Apply the product as instructed on the packaging and never exfoliate if skin is irritated, sunburned, or wounded. The best skincare routine for sunburned skin includes an exfoliation step later, when the skin has healed. And be careful not to over-exfoliate, as this could lead to skin that is red and irritated.
Follow with Moisturizer
Exfoliating is beneficial, but certain formulas can also be drying to the skin. The AAD recommends choosing the right moisturizer for your skin type and applying it immediately after exfoliating to keep the skin healthy and hydrated.
Best Exfoliating Products
If your exfoliant interest is piqued, here are the best products that provide the most impressive exfoliating benefits.
Best Chemical Exfoliant
Tatcha’s liquid exfoliant, The Texture Tonic, is a game-changing chemical exfoliant suitable for most skin types. The AHA-powered formula is gentle enough to be used daily and offers more benefits than a simple toner. But that doesn’t mean it’s not effective: It’s specifically formulated to reduce excess oil and sebum, while also improving skin’s moisture levels. The formula has niacinamide and Japanese mugwort to reduce the look of discoloration, while also calming the skin, reducing redness and irritation.
Best Physical Exfoliant
This water-activated physical exfoliant with Japanese ingredients transforms into a creamy, cloud-like foam. Finely ground rice bran and papaya enzymes promote natural skin turnover, leaving the skin soft and supple. The formula is also boosted with Tatcha’s proprietary Hadasei-3, a trio of fermented Japanese superfoods – green tea, rice, and algae – that help restore healthy-looking radiance. In consumer studies, 100 percent of users showed an immediate improvement in skin texture, radiance, softness, and the appearance of pores.* 100 percent of consumers also showed an immediate improvement in hydration, as well.**
There’s also a variety of Rice Polish options available, customized for your specific skin type. The Classic Rice Polish is ideal for combination to dry skin. The Calming Rice Polish is perfect for exfoliating sensitive skin. The Deep Rice Polish is a great fit for exfoliating combination to oily skin. And the Gentle Rice Polish is ideal for dry to mature skin.
Best Exfoliating Face Wash
This daily clarifying gel cleanser decongests pores without stripping skin, while also rebalancing skin’s natural oil production for smoother skin and reduced makeup slip-off. The refreshing watery-foam formula includes premium Kyo-matcha (sourced directly from the famed Uji region in Kyoto), powerhouse coix seed (used in herbal medicines for centuries to purify pores), BHA-alternative willow bark (to provide gentle chemical exfoliation) and Japanese mugwort (to support & repair skin barrier function).
The benefits of exfoliating are deeply impressive. If you missed it, chemical exfoliants help to brighten the surface of the skin, eliminate dead skin cells, and curb excess oil for most skin types, while physical exfoliation stimulates collagen production, unveiling smoother skin, and creating a luminous, healthy glow. No matter what exfoliant you use, consider starting thoughtfully and carefully to ensure your skin remains as healthy as possible.
*Based on a clinical study of 25 women after a single use of The Rice Polish: Classic.
**Based on a bio instrumentation study conducted on 25 people after using The Rice Polish: Classic.
