An essence is a water-light liquid that hydrates and preps skin for everything that follows, while a serum is a thicker, more concentrated treatment that targets a specific concern. Applied in that order after cleansing, the two work together, with the essence helping the serum work more effectively.
But when you see the words “essence” and “serum,” do you think of complicated, 10-step skincare rituals? Japanese skincare routines can sound complex, but they are usually built around simplicity and effectiveness, and an essence paired with a serum is a good example. Here is what each one does, how to apply them, and which Tatcha formulas to try.
What Is An Essence?
The Japanese skincare ritual has long been centered around botanical-infused essences. These thin and fragrance-free “beauty waters” are a fundamental step in softening and brightening skin. While it might seem like an unnecessary step in your daily ritual, this game-changing product can transform skin in mere seconds. The water-light essence floods skin with hydration and amplifies the performance of any treatment by channeling it into the skin, notes Tatcha founder Vicky Tsai.
And while the majority of Japanese individuals today use an essence as part of their daily routine, the product has been heralded for centuries. Before essences were bottled, the botanicals were harnessed with a distillation technique of tiered tea kettles. Boiled and steamed flowers were expertly extracted into potent essences, which were then delicately applied to the skin for radiance and softening.
Today, essences can be packed full of complex ingredients, but at Tatcha we believe in a simple, pure, and fermented formula that was developed in our Tokyo lab many years ago. Our proprietary blend of green tea, seaweed, and rice works together to provide plump, baby-soft skin instantaneously. The secret is our fermented nutrients that produce lactic acid, which helps with cellular turnover and improves skin’s texture. Also beneficial are green tea (regarded as one of the most powerful antioxidants), which targets free radicals, and seaweed, which replenishes skin’s natural water reservoir and increases its capability to retain moisture.
Since an essence is basically nutrition for the skin, look for products that do not list water as the first or major ingredient, advises Tsai. Also, avoid essences that note alcohol as a primary ingredient, because alcohol will dry the skin.
An essence, which is patted into the skin twice daily after cleansing, doing a double cleanse, or polishing, should always precede any ritual enhancements like serums, moisturizers, or facial oils. You may be so enamored with the plumpness of your skin and its resulting luster that you’ll be tempted to skip the next step—but don’t. The most important job of the essence and its primary function is to make the skin ready for whatever treatment follows. The essence is the first act of giving back to your skin after you have shed impurities by purifying and polishing.
How to Apply an Essence
You might be tempted to treat an essence like a toner by utilizing the formula on a cotton pad—but don’t use this with an essence. Don’t waste this precious formula by letting half of it soak into a cotton round. After cleansing or polishing, pour a shallow well of essence into one hand, press your palms together, and then gently pat the essence into the skin of your face, neck, and décolletage. Then, immediately follow with a serum and/or moisturizer.
What Is a Serum?
Serums are highly potent skincare treatments that work to increase the overall effectiveness of your entire skincare ritual. These liquid or gel formulas contain high concentrations of ingredients, which are able to penetrate into your skin more deeply. At night, these concentrated and nutrient-dense formulas can also help to aid in skin repair while you sleep.
There are countless formulas that target innumerous focuses, from brightening to hydrating to smoothing. A nyone can benefit from introducing a facial serum into their skincare ritual. Whether you are in your 20s or your 70s, skin can always use an added boost of nourishment, especially in drier months and drier climates. Depending on the strength of the formula and the focus, the frequency of application will vary. But, usually, serums should be applied directly after an essence twice a day and then a moisturizer will directly follow the application of a serum.
How to Apply a Serum
Using your fingertips, massage serum into your skin in upward circular strokes. Because serums are known for their active ingredients, double-check formulas for safety and frequency of application. It’s ideal to do a spot test first to check for possible irritation in an inconspicuous area, like behind the ear or side of the neck.
Essence vs. Serum
Some products are marketed as either or both, but the two are distinct. An essence has a water-like texture that soaks into skin instantly to soften and hydrate, while a serum is thicker and more concentrated and targets a specific concern. They also work well together: Using both has been shown in studies to support overall skin hydration, firmness, and elasticity, while reducing water loss throughout the day.
Do you need both an essence and a serum?
No, but they do more together than either does alone. The essence hydrates and primes skin so the serum’s active ingredients absorb more effectively, and the serum delivers the targeted treatment the essence isn’t designed to provide. If your routine has room for only a few steps, essence, serum, and moisturizer is a simple sequence that covers hydration, treatment, and protection.
If you only choose one
Choose an essence if your main concern is dryness, dullness, or rough texture, or if you want a single step that makes everything else in your routine work better. Choose a serum if you have a specific concern, like fine lines, dark spots, or loss of firmness, and want a treatment formulated for it. Either way, cleanse first and follow with a moisturizer.
Our Best Essence and Serums
The Essence, for All-Day Hydration
One of the most vital and transformative products to accomplish the nourishing task of hydration is The Essence. Tatcha’s treatment essence is comprised of a simple—yet miraculous—formula of 100 percent Hadasei-3, a proprietary fermented complex of the very superfoods core to the Japanese diet: rice, algae, and green tea. This potent formula resurfaces and hydrates for primed, plump, petal-soft skin. But one of the most important functions of The Essence is to make the skin ready for whatever treatment follows, so it’s ideal to apply the water-thin formula morning and night after cleansing and prior to serums and moisturizers.
For Fine Lines and Wrinkles
Looking to target the look of fine lines and wrinkles without harsh products and complicated formulas? Try The Silk Serum, which visibly firms skin and boosts radiance with an innovative mix of plant-based ingredients including upcycled cranberry extract and sea fennel.
For Skin Brightening
To reduce hyperpigmentation, refine skin texture, and boost elasticity, try The Brightening Serum. The formula contains a potent blend of 12-hour time-release vitamin C and ferulic acid, an antioxidant that defends against free radical damage while boosting SPF protection.
For Hydration
If you’re seeking plumper and dewier skin, consider The Dewy Serum, a milky formula that renews, resurfaces, floods the skin with hydration, and locks in moisture. The blend includes our proprietary Hadasei-3 complex, hyaluronic acid, and squalane for hydration that sticks around all day long.*
*based on bioinstrumentation study conducted on 25 people.
For Hydration On-the-Go
If you’d like to start your day with a boost of hydration—or reapply on-the-go as needed—grab the portable Serum Stick. The concentrated solid serum, made of squalane and Japanese rice bran, targets signs of aging and dryness instantly and over time, keeping skin and makeup fresh throughout the day.
For Soothing & Calming
If calming irritation and soothing skin is top of mind, consider Tatcha’s groundbreaking Indigo Overnight Repair. Unlike the Indigo Calming Cream, the Indigo Overnight Repair is a soothing serum-in-moisturizer treatment that visibly calms irritation, strengthens skin’s barrier, and balances the microbiome with indigo extracts and ceramides. The unique formula has been shown to improve skin radiance, softness, smoothness, and texture in just one night.*
*Based on a clinical study of 40 panelists.
It’s a misconception that skincare rituals have to be intensive, time-consuming regimens. It can be quite the opposite, as classic rituals that are short and effortless can be just as transformative for the skin and soul alike. The secret is finding formulas that are multifaceted and beneficial when paired together, like an essence and serum. These few simple steps will translate into beautiful skin, not just for today, but for a lifetime.
