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An essence and serum go perfectly together, helping one another work even more effectively on the skin. But what is the difference between an essence and a serum and how do you best utilize each? We explore the answers. When you see the words ‘essence’ and ‘serum’, do you think of complicated, 10+ step skincare rituals? While Japanese skincare routines can sound complex, they are usually centered around the idea of simplicity and effectiveness. And an essence and serum go perfectly together, helping one another work even more effectively on the skin. But what is the difference between an essence and a serum and how do you best utilize each? We uncover the answers below, as well as the best serums and essence for you.What Is An Essence?The Japanese skincare ritual has long been centered around botanical-infused essences. These thin and fragrance-free “beauty waters" are a fundamental step in softening and brightening skin. While it might seem like an unnecessary step in your daily ritual, this game-changing product can transform skin in mere seconds. The water-light essence floods skin with hydration and amplifies the performance of any treatment by channeling it into the skin, notes Tatcha founder Vicky Tsai.And while the majority of Japanese individuals today use an essence as part of their daily routine, the product has been heralded for centuries. Before essences were bottled, the botanicals were harnessed with a distillation technique of tiered tea kettles. Boiled and steamed flowers were expertly extracted into potent essences, which were then delicately applied to the skin for radiance and softening.Today, essences can be packed full of complex ingredients, but at Tatcha we believe in a simple, pure, and fermented formula that was developed in our Tokyo lab many years ago. Our proprietary blend of green tea, seaweed, and rice work together to provide plump, baby-soft skin instantaneously. The secret is our fermented nutrients that produce lactic acid, which helps with cellular turnover and improves skin’s texture. Also beneficial are green tea (regarded as one of the most powerful antioxidants), which targets free radicals, and seaweed, which replenishes skin’s natural water reservoir and increases its capability to retain moisture.Since an essence is basically nutrition for the skin, look for products that do not list water as the first or major ingredient, advises Tsai. Also, avoid essences that note alcohol as a primary ingredient, because alcohol will dry the skin.An essence, which is patted into the skin twice daily after cleansing, doing a double cleanse, or polishing, should always precede any ritual enhancements like serums, moisturizers, or facial oils. You may be so enamored with the plumpness of your skin and its resulting luster that you’ll be tempted to skip the next step—but don’t. The most important job of the essence and its primary function is to make the skin ready for whatever treatment follows. The essence is the first act of giving back to your skin after you have shed impurities by purifying and polishing.How to Apply An EssenceYou might be tempted to treat an essence like a toner by utilizing the formula on a cotton pad—but don’t use this with an essence. Don’t waste this precious formula by letting half of it soak into a cotton round. After cleansing or polishing, pour a shallow well of essence into one hand, press your palms together, and then gently pat the essence into the skin of your face, neck, and décolletage. Then, immediately follow with a serum and/or moisturizer.What Is A Serum?Serums are highly potent skincare treatments that work to increase the overall effectiveness of your entire skincare ritual. These liquid or gel formulas contain high concentrations of ingredients, which are able to penetrate into your skin more deeply. At night, these concentrated and nutrient-dense formulas can also help to aid in skin repair while you sleep.There are countless formulas that target innumerous focuses, from brightening to hydrating to smoothing. Anyone can benefit from introducing a facial serum into your skincare ritual—whether you are in your 20s or your 70s, skin can always use an added boost of nourishment, especially in drier months and drier climates. Depending on the strength of the formula and the focus, the frequency of application will vary. But, usually, serums should be applied directly after an essence twice a day and then a moisturizer will directly follow the application of a serum.How to Apply A SerumUsing your fingertips, massage serum into your skin in upward circular strokes. Because serums are known for their active ingredients, double-check formulas for safety and frequency of application. It’s ideal to do a spot test first to check for possible irritation in an inconspicuous area, like behind the ear or side of the neck.Essence vs. SerumWhile some skincare products can be marketed as either or both—essences have a water-like texture that instantly soaks into the skin to soften and hydrate, while a serum is thicker and more viscous and targets specific concerns. That said, an essence and a serum work harmoniously together, helping to make each other more effective and beneficial. In fact, using both an essence and a serum together has been shown in studies to support overall skin hydration, firmness, and elasticity, while also reducing water loss throughout the day.The Best Essence For All-Day Hydration One of the most vital and transformative products to accomplish the nourishing task of hydration is The Essence. Tatcha’s treatment essence is comprised of a simple—yet miraculous—formula of 100 percent Hadasei-3, a proprietary fermented complex of the very superfoods core to the Japanese diet: rice, algae, and green tea. This potent formula resurfaces and hydrates for primed, plump, petal-soft skin. But one of the most important functions of The Essence is to make the skin ready for whatever treatment follows, so it’s ideal to apply the water-thin formula morning and night after cleansing and prior to serums and moisturizers.The Best Serums For Fine Lines and Wrinkles Looking to target the look of fine lines and wrinkles without harsh products and complicated formulas? Try Tatcha’s Silk Serum, which visibly firms skin and boosts radiance with an innovative mix of plant-based ingredients including upcycled cranberry extract and sea fennel.For Skin Brightening To reduce hyperpigmentation, refine skin texture, and boost elasticity, try The Brightening Serum. The formula contains a potent blend of 12-hour time-release vitamin C and ferulic acid, an antioxidant that defends against free radical damage and while boosting SPF protection.For Hydration If you’re seeking plumper and dewier skin, consider The Dewy Serum, a milky formula that renews, resurfaces, floods the skin with hydration, and locks in moisture. The blend includes our proprietary Hadasei-3 complex, hyaluronic acid, and squalane for hydration that sticks around all day long.**based on bioinstrumentation study conducted on 25 people.For Hydration On-the-Go If you’d like to start your day with a boost of hydration—or reapply on-the-go as needed—grab the portable Serum Stick. The concentrated solid serum, made of squalane and Japanese lemon balm, targets signs of aging and dryness instantly and over time, keeping skin and makeup fresh throughout the day.For Soothing & Calming If calming irritation and soothing skin is top of mind, consider Tatcha’s groundbreaking Indigo Overnight Repair. Unlike the Indigo Calming Cream, the Indigo Overnight Repair is a soothing serum-in-moisturizer treatment that visibly calms irritation, strengthens skin’s barrier, and balances the microbiome with indigo extracts and ceramides. The unique formula has been shown to improve skin radiance, softness, suppleness, skin texture, and tone in just one night.**Based on a 4-week clinical study of 41 participants.It’s a misconception that skincare rituals have to be intensive, time-consuming regimens. It can be quite the opposite, as classic rituals that are short and effortless can be just as transformative for the skin and soul alike. The secret is finding formulas that are multifaceted and beneficial when paired together, like an essence and serum. These few simple steps will translate into beautiful skin, not just for today, but for a lifetime.

Cleansing can help with the overall health and appearance of the skin, but a clarifying cleanser can take it one step further, addressing and targeting blemishes, blackheads, and excess oil. Facial cleansers are undisputedly important, but particularly for individuals with oily and acne-prone skin. Removing dirt, oil, makeup, sweat, debris, and dead skin cells from the face with a clarifying cleanser helps not only maintain the overall health and appearance of skin, but also addresses blemishes and blackheads by decongesting pores. Keep reading as we discover the origins of cleansing, what makes a facial cleanser clarifying, and the best clarifying cleanser to add to your skincare routine. The Origins of Cleansing The idea of cleansing dates back to the origin of the human race, notes a 2011 dermatologic study. In the earliest times, cleansing was done with a stone or piece of bone and scraping the skin (a process also later popularized by the ancient Greeks and Romans). But soap can be found as far back as 2000 BC, made with materials found in nature, including tree ash, animal fat, and mineral-rich clay. As the study notes, skin cleansers were originally created to solve issues still prevalent today: remove surface impurities that are not water soluble with an active substance (whether that be emulsifiers, detergents, surfactants, or soaps) that can remove dirt, sebum, and oil on the skin’s surface. What Is A Cleanser? As we researched in depth in The Best Japanese Facial Cleansers and Exfoliators, facial cleansers come in many different textures, from balms and creams to oils and lightweight foams. They work—quite literally—at the molecular level, encasing dirt, debris, and other build-up and allowing them to be washed off the skin’s surface. They are the first step in any skincare routine and arguably the most important, too. What Is A Clarifying Cleanser? A clarifying cleanser is focused on penetrating deep into the pores, dissolving excess oil, and addressing acne-causing bacteria. They often have an active ingredient that targets impurities while also cleansing the skin. Who is a clarifying cleanser ideal for? Because the formula is designed to balance the skin, remove dead skin cells, and control oil production, it’s designed for oily and blemish-prone skin. However, those with occasional breakouts or just desire a deep cleanse can also utilize a clarifying cleanser. How to Wash Your Face According to the American Academy of Dermatology, how you wash your face can make a difference in its appearance. Here are a few dermatologist-approved suggestions. Use Warm Water Hot water can strip the skin, so only use lukewarm water (same for showers, too). Gentle A non-abrasive cleanser is particularly important for skin, even with oily and blemish-prone skin. “The myth associated with acne that vigorous scrubbing of the skin with soap and water several times a day will reduce the oiliness; however, only leads to an aggravation of acne,” says the 2011 study. This gentle skincare routine also extends to the pressure applied when washing skin: resist the temptation to scrub the skin, which can irritate, says the AAD. Order Is Important The sequence in which you apply your skin care products affects how well the products work, says the AAD. Here is their recommended order of application. Wash your hands first and then cleanse the skin. Follow up with a treatment, whether that be an essence, serum, and/or prescription from your dermatologist. After that, apply a moisturizer. Then finish it off with sunscreen during the day. Twice a Day Washing the face twice a day and immediately after sweating is all the cleansing it needs, notes the AAD. Once in the morning and once at night is effective, but another cleanse after sweating heavily is also recommended. Best Clarifying Cleanser The Matcha Cleanse Those with oily and combination skin often believe they need to over-wash their faces to rid themselves of excessive oil and prevent breakouts—but this skin-stripping step can actually do the opposite, causing the skin to produce even more oil and potentially lead to more breakouts. This is where The Matcha Cleanse steps in to save the day. The refreshing watery-foam texture is packed with unique and powerful ingredients. The formula includes ceremonial-grade matcha (sourced directly from the famed Uji region in Kyoto), which has been clinically proven to reduce the appearance of blemishes. The cleanser also has coix seed, a potent ingredient used in herbal medicines for centuries to decongest pores, and Japanese mugwort to support skin barrier function. With continuous usage, the daily clarifying gel cleanser can purify and decongest pores without stripping the skin, while also rebalancing the skin’s natural oil production.

Experiencing dry skin and blemishes can be difficult and frustrating. But with a few, effective products, you can not only address acne, but also support the skin’s overall well-being. The concept of acne-prone skin often conjures up images of oily skin—but dry skin can experience acne, too. Keep reading to understand why dry skin can cause acne, and how to help reduce possible breakouts on dry skin.Can Dry Skin Cause Acne?Plain and simple: yes, dry skin can cause acne. “Dry skin is irritated skin,” says the American Academy of Dermatology. “Anytime you irritate your skin, you risk getting more acne.”While the AAD is referring to drying out skin with aggressive astringents and acne treatments until skin is desert-level dry, naturally dry skin types can also deal with acne. This is because your skin naturally wants to live in equilibrium, but consistent dryness can cause pores to overcompensate and produce excessive oils and sebum, which can lead to breakouts.Additionally, as skin ages, it’s been shown that increased transepidermal water loss leads to dry skin and reduced barrier function. This natural process can also increase acne due to a lack of moisture and a compromised barrier.How to Address Acne with Dry SkinWhile oily skin types can have success targeting blemishes with traditional acne treatments, those with dry skin can experience even more dryness with these products, thus making it nearly impossible for dry skin to consistently use. But with a few best practices, dry skin can safely utilize tips to address blemishes.HydrateWhen employing products that target acne, it’s important to consistently utilize other products that nourish, calm, and hydrate the skin. Reach for gentle formulas when it comes to cleansing and moisturizing, so you can add moisture back to the skin whenever possible. Cleansing can be particularly harsh on dry skin, so grab a calming face wash that soothes the skin’s barrier, rather than aggressive formulas that can damage it.Additionally, those experiencing acne may be tempted to shy away from moisturizers, fearing it will cause further blemishes—but that couldn't be further from the truth. A well-formulated moisturizer can help the skin feel balanced, control excessive oil production, and leave skin looking radiant and luminous. Support the Skin BarrierAs we’ve previously highlighted, the skin barrier is basically just your outer layer of the skin and a healthy barrier equates to healthy skin. To repair and support your skin, aim for a gentle cleanser, a thoughtfully crafted moisturizer, a broad-spectrum sunscreen, and a healthy lifestyle. While a healthy life is an internal focus, using a simplified ritual that supports the barrier is not only simple but also effective.Use Acne Treatments SparinglyWhile it’s tempting to use a hefty dose of blemish-focused treatments as frequently as possible to rid spots quickly—you’re far more likely to not only cause severe damage to the skin (and barrier), but also get more blemishes in the process (from the damaged barrier and excessive dryness). The best course of action is to follow a product’s usage recommendation and go slow and steady, says the AAD. They also suggest applying a moisturizer made for acne-prone skin, twice a day to address dryness.Best Products to Address Dry Skin and AcneThe tricky combination of dryness and blemish can be difficult to address, but paring down the routine into a few, effective products will help not only address acne, but also support the skin overall.Barrier-Supporting CleanserCleansing is vital for the health of the skin, but harsh formulas can strip the barrier’s oil, leading to more damage. A calming, nurturing cleanser (that still effectively cleanses) is necessary. Try one of Tatcha’s newest innovations: The Indigo Cleansing Balm. This skin-strengthening formula instantly calms visible irritation, while also supporting and transforming the barrier. It still effectively cleanses though, efficiently removing even waterproof makeup. The results are stunning, too: In clinical studies, 100 percent of participants demonstrated an improvement in barrier function after just one week of use.* Unlike harsh cleansers, The Indigo Cleansing Balm also soothes visible irritation and replenishes moisture—strengthening the skin barrier so it can help prevent future damage for smooth, calm, and radiant-looking skin.Hot (but not literally) tip: The Cleveland Clinic suggests cleansing with warm – not hot – water. Hot water strips the natural oils, too.*Based on bio-instrumentation (TEWL) clinical study on 40 panelists.Pore-Minimizing Liquid ExfoliantAn exfoliant can make pores appear less noticeable, says the AAD. It can also help to ease excess oil, sebum, and dead skin cells—all causes linked to blemishes. But, famously, exfoliants can be irritating—until now. Consider The Texture Tonic, a liquid exfoliating treatment that has AHAs to address dead skin cells and clogged pores, as well as niacinamide and wild rose to visibly even skin tone and texture—without stripping skin’s essential moisture. The formula is still gentle enough for dry and sensitive skin types, helping to visibly calm redness and irritation with Japanese mugwort, while addressing skin’s appearance. Lightweight Hydration The best face cream for dry skin can often be a cream or ointment—but that’s not always the best fit for acne-prone skin. Try The Water Cream, which addresses both hydration and excessive oil in a single lightweight, clarifying cream. In a consumer study, 95 percent of users noted their skin looked brighter and more moisturized and 85 percent of users noted their pores appeared smaller.** **Based on a twice daily use for four weeks, in an independent consumer study of 20 women.A Hydrating SunscreenPrioritize UV protection with a broad-spectrum sunscreen every day. After all, it’s been shown that sun exposure can trigger or worsen acne. That said, if you have dry skin that’s acne prone, sunscreen options can often be difficult to find, as many can trigger dryness, blemishes, or even irritation. Try The Silk Sunscreen, a non-comedogenic, broad-spectrum formula that hydrates and protects against UVA and UVB rays with 10 percent zinc oxide for a mineral, reef-safe filter. Not only does the Silk Sunscreen feel impossibly light, but the formula also includes niacinamide to reduce redness and visibly even skin tone and firm the look of pores. Also, to address dryness, hyaluronic acid helps to immediately boost skin’s natural moisture levels, softness, and skin tone. While experiencing acne with dry skin can feel impossible and frustrating to treat, sticking to a healthy lifestyle and routine—and being patient and consistent—is the key. Putting the care back into your skincare routine is the first step to addressing both dryness and blemishes.

The name might be confusing, but its impressive benefits are not. We uncover what the fermented ingredient is, how it transforms skin, and the best skincare products featuring it. Bifida Ferment Lysate: A long, complicated name with powerful, skin-bettering benefits. This probiotic ingredient may be under the radar now, but get familiar with the reparative product because it’s about to be a household name. We uncover what the fermented ingredient is, how it transforms skin, and the best Japanese skincare products featuring it. Happier skin starts now.What is Bifida Ferment Lysate?Bifida Ferment Lysate is a probiotic ingredient found in skincare obtained from fermenting bifidobacterium. What makes this specific bacteria so special is that it is one of the most important microbes in the gastrointestinal tract that exerts positive effects on us—aka it’s one of the famed ‘good bacteria’ found in probiotics that support a healthy gut. Why would you want a probiotic, fermented ingredient in your skincare? Just as a thoughtfully crafted probiotic strengthens the flora of your stomach, a carefully fermented skincare ingredient can drastically strengthen and improve the health of your skin.What Does Bifida Ferment Lysate Do for the Skin?While it is an emerging ingredient, scientific studies have already shown impressive results when Bifida Ferment Lysate is present in skincare formulas. One in vitro study from 2023 found that Bifida Ferment Lysate is effective in reducing acne and improving skin barrier function. Another 2022 study found that the probiotic ingredient had strong antioxidant properties on the skin and confirmed that it did indeed strengthen skin barrier function.Why is supporting the skin barrier function important? A healthy skin barrier literally equates to healthy skin. According to a 2018 study, the skin barrier is “important to human life” due to its vital tasks of protection (from external threats and water loss internally). The study added that the “importance of skin barrier cannot be overemphasized.”In addition to barrier support, Bifida Ferment Lysate has been linked to a reduction in dryness, redness, and skin sensitivity. The probiotic has also been shown to encourage skin to visibly repair itself and provide a mild exfoliating experience, which can give the face a healthier-looking appearance.Best Fermented Skincare ProductsFermented skincare ingredients have been shown to have one major thing in common: they help to strengthen the skin’s natural moisture barrier regardless of your skin type. Here’s one of our favorite fermented skincare products that is shown to improve skin’s hydration and overall appearance.The EssenceSimilar to Bifida Ferment Lysate, Tatcha has a proprietary double-fermented ingredient: Hadasei-3. The bestselling and revolutionary Essence is made up of 100 percent Hadasei-3—a trio of fermented Japanese superfoods, which has been clinically proven to resurface, hydrate, and impressively boost the potency of skincare products applied afterward. To create the magical Essence, the Tatcha Institute in Tokyo perfected the formula with Akita rice, Okinawa algae, and Uji green tea. The rice is fermented with a specially selected yeast strain, similar to Bifida Ferment Lysate, which helps to deliver these probiotic benefits and nutrients directly to the skin. The moisture-retaining algae is then added to help replenish the skin barrier, as well as the green tea to provide antioxidant protection and support. This harmonious trio is then fermented once more, boosting their potency and providing amino acids and AHAs, which support the barrier and provide natural surface cell turnover for smoother skin.In consumer studies, The Essence demonstrated a +621 percent improvement in skin moisturization* and a 100 percent improvement in softness, suppleness, smoothness, and radiance**.While curating your specific skincare ritual is a personal journey, consider adding a fermented skincare ingredient, whether that be the emerging Bifida Ferment Lysate or a similar formula like The Essence. Not only will your barrier appreciate the TLC, but your skin’s overall radiance will too. *Based on an instrumentation study conducted on 30 panelists in 2022**Based on an expert grading study on 30 panelists in October 2021

A moisturizer-meets-serum in a convenient stick format? Dreams do come true with a lotion stick. Read what to look for in a formula, how to best use them, and more. Are complicated, heavy, and cumbersome moisturizers weighing you down (literally and figuratively)? Try an on-the-go moisturizer stick, which not only is wonderfully convenient but also packs a hydrating punch no matter where your day takes you. Keep reading to discover the ease of incorporating a lotion stick into your routine, ingredients to look out for, and more.What is a Moisturizer Stick?A moisturizer stick is a compact face balm that might easily be confused for a lip balm—but it’s vastly different. While they both hydrate, a moisturizer stick is designed to be a clever serum-meets-moisturizer formula, all in a convenient, to-go stick. A lotion stick, as it’s also known, is also inherently multipurpose: you can swipe it anywhere and anytime to hydrate, refresh, and address anything, from dry under eyes and makeup settling into fine lines to brightening mid-day dullness and enhancing radiance instantly. Think of a moisturizer stick as your do-it-all skin buddy, there to help support you in any way needed. Basically, it’s dewy skin on demand.Things To Consider In A Moisturizer StickWith the rising popularity of a lotion stick, it’s easy to think they’re all created equal. But some formulas stand out from the crowd with extraordinary ingredients, clinical claims, and multi-purpose benefits.The Serum StickThis concentrated solid serum targets signs of aging and dryness instantly and over time, rehydrating skin and makeup throughout the day. While stick moisturizers from other brands may appear nearly identical to Tatcha’s OG hydrating treatment, The Serum Stick stands above the rest for a few specific reasons. Zero Percent WaterSimilar hydrating formulas contain water as the first ingredient, but The Serum Stick has a grand total of zero percent water. Instead, it contains 80 percent purified squalane, which richly moisturizes and supports the skin’s barrier function while also locking in hydration all day, helping to minimize dryness instantly. This ingredient is particularly treasured in the formula because the weightless emollient absorbs easily without clogging pores or leaving behind an oily residue. In clinical studies, 95 percent of users demonstrated an instant improvement in dryness immediately.*Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid Many other brand’s formulas contain hyaluronic acid, a potent hydrator. But Tatcha’s Serum Stick includes a specific low molecular weight formula to help draw moisture into the skin, helping to plump and hydrate while on the face.Healthy Aging Bonus IngredientsHydration is a necessity in any moisturizing stick, but what else does the formula accomplish? When it comes to The Serum Stick, Japanese lemon balm is strategically included to reduce the appearance of fine lines and creases from dehydration. While it might sound like a modern ingredient, lemon balm, or kousui hakka as it’s known in Japan, has been used for centuries to help calm inflammation. Another innovative ingredient that’s all our own? Our proprietary Hadasei-3 complex, which nourishes, hydrates, and supports skin in a single swipe. Users found their dry skin instantly smoother after applying, but it also has impressive long-term benefits: 95 percent of users demonstrated an improvement in the look of fine lines after four weeks.*Immediate RadianceThere are many reasons to swipe on a moisturizing stick, but an immediate improvement in brightness is an unexpected bonus. In clinicals, The Serum Stick was shown to improve skin’s radiance immediately in 91 percent of users.**Based on once-daily use in an independent expert grader (or consumer) study of 23 women. Individual results may vary.How to Use a Moisturizer StickThe brilliance of a stick lotion is its multipurpose usage. Swipe on anytime, anywhere. But here are a few additional uses and benefits.The Eye Area The Serum Stick smooths dryness and addresses fine lines instantly and over time, which makes it perfect for the delicate eye area. Perk up the skin around the eyes before applying the right sunscreen for your skin type or mid-day to help minimize lines and crepiness when dehydration creeps in.Makeup-Related Dryness Matte formula makeup paired with dry air and sensitized skin can equate to makeup dryness, leaving skin looking more flat than usual. Glide on The Serum Stick to soften, comfort, and hydrate dry spots.Prime Skin Create a dewy, seamless, and primed face with The Serum Stick. Simply melt into clean skin to prevent makeup from settling into fine lines, while also improving makeup’s blendability. Feel free to apply over makeup mid-day, too, to refresh and add a natural glow.Given its endless versatility, a moisturizer stick belongs in your skincare ritual—no matter your skin type, daily routine, or makeup preferences. The only question left to ask is ‘How many different ways will you find to utilize your dewy-on-demand moisturizer stick?’

There are many plant-derived ingredients used for skincare, but alpha hydroxy acids might be one of the most popular. This guide will help you understand why—and where to find them. Cleanse, moisturize, sun protect—these are the building blocks of a skincare routine. But they miss one crucial step: Exfoliation.You could think of exfoliation as something like a deeper clean, but that might be missing the point. In fact, sufficient exfoliation not only cleanses the skin, but also helps to tone (by shedding old, dead skin cells) and moisturize (by supporting skin barrier maintenance). In this light, not only is exfoliation an important step in anyone’s skincare routine, but can also boost the effectiveness of its other steps, too.Products like scrubs and peels are intended to exfoliate the skin, using a variety of ingredients to do so—from rice bran to fruit enzymes. But there are also a group of acids that are commonly found in chemical exfoliants. If you were to list them A to Z, you’d come to alpha hydroxy first—one of the most popular acids of its kind. Here’s a brief introduction to alpha hydroxy acids, including what benefits they could offer your skin, no matter your skin type. What are alpha hydroxy acids?Alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs are a common type of acid. They’re carboxylic compounds (where a carboxylic acid is connected to a substituent) with a hydroxyl carbon attached to an alpha carbon—this is how they’re distinguished from other acids prevalent in skincare, like beta hydroxy acids (BHAs).AHAs’ claim to fame is their incredible benefits for skin. Discovered about 50 years ago, AHAs have not only expanded our understanding of skincare but our market as well. Today, AHAs can be found in all sorts of formulas, like exfoliating masks and skin-smoothing cleansers. The doctors who pioneered research of AHA were early to note its effectiveness on all skin types, even sensitive skin. (They were recognized at 2010’s Cosmetic Surgery Forum.)According to the Food and Drug Administration, the primary use of AHAs is to exfoliate. When applied to skin, these acids break down the substances binding the top layer of old skin cells to the layers beneath it, allowing this layer to more easily lift off. How much exfoliation occurs depends on a variety of things, from the concentration of AHAs to the rest of the formula that contains them. What are the types of AHAs? There are several types of alpha hydroxy acids that are commonly found in skincare formulations, each named for its source. Most AHAs are derived from fruit or milk. You may see some of the following terms on your favorite formulation’s ingredient labels.Citric acid. Derived from citrus fruits and juices, this AHA promotes skin peeling, and can even exhibit anti-aging benefits, according to the Environmental Working Group.Malic acid. This apple-derived acid has been shown to brighten skin, help promote collagen production, and even boost hydration levels, according to some studies. It’s also particularly prized for its gentleness.Lactic acid. Lactic acid comes from milk. In addition to exfoliating, lactic acid also binds water—moisturizing the skin while sloughing away old cells.Glycolic acid. One dermatologist told Glamour that glycolic acid, the simplest and smallest AHA on a molecular level, was the most effective for penetrating deep into the skin’s outermost layer. It’s no wonder, then, why it’s so popular in formulas that balance oil levels in the skin.Tartaric acid. This little-known acid found in limes and grapes is likely to be found in fruit-flavored desserts, but also has skincare properties; the antioxidants in tartaric acid helps repair oxidative damage to skin cells. What does AHA do for skin? AHAs benefit skin in myriad ways. The simple act of loosening the bonds between older and newer cells not only leads to a more luminous complexion, but it helps support the skin’s natural functions by accelerating its turnover process. When you apply an AHA consistently, these are the kinds of skin benefits you can expect. Exfoliation. It’s one of the most important parts of anybody’s skincare routine. Whether you choose a chemical liquid exfoliant, or something physical like a scrub, it’s important to clear the way so skin can focus on growth—and skincare can get to where it needs to go faster. AHAs, which fall into the chemical exfoliant category, are a tried-and-true way to exfoliate. Moisturization and hydration. The structure of AHAs allow them to easily bind to water, which is why many help to hydrate the skin—they can’t help but pull water out of the air and into the skin. Certain AHAs, like lactic acid, are also already a part of skin’s natural moisturization complex, and help to seal up the skin against water loss when applied. Smoothing and plumping. Glycolic acid is one AHA that has been observed to increase the gene expression for collagen and hyaluronic acid in the skin, according to a 2015 comparative study, which is why so many glycolic products are used in anti-aging formulas that can reduce the appearance of fine lines or offer plumping benefits to skin. Clearing out acne. The Mayo Clinic cites glycolic and lactic acids as two examples of AHAs that can help quell acne before it begins, by helping remove dead skin from pores—and soothing inflammation. What AHA products benefit skin?Due to the many ways in which they help skin, you can find AHAs in a wide variety of skincare formulations. If you’re looking to add AHAs into your routine, consider where there might be gaps—and what the right products to fill them may be.A skin-softening AHA toner. Tatcha’s Texture Tonic is lightweight, but packs an exfoliating punch. It harnesses a suite of active botanical ingredients from Japanese wild rose (which visibly tightens pores) and mugwort (which can calm redness). It also incorporates AHAs derived from a cornucopia of fruits like apple, grapefruit, orange, lemons and limes that resurface uneven, dull, and dry skin, and remove debris and the buildup of dead skin cells. A skin-brightening AHA serum. Like the alpha hydroxy acid, vitamin C is a fruit derivative shown to deliver many benefits to skin. Between fading dark spots and fighting inflammation, it’s an ingredient that—when correctly stabilized—can turn on your glow. This potent antioxidant joins fruit-derived AHAs in the Violet-C Brightening Serum, intended to resurface dullness and uneven skin—and adding plants like the Japanese angelica root that help to reduce the look of discoloration. A skin-smoothing AHA mask. For those who have a complete daily routine, but might be looking to add other ingredients into their overall skincare, consider the mask—a once- or twice-weekly treatment, and an opportunity to try something new. AHAs are a common mask additive, and in the Violet-C Radiance Mask, they join two forms of vitamin C in one creamy, hydrating formula. A fast-acting vitamin C derivative absorbs quickly to fight premature aging and support surface cell turnover, while a long-lasting vitamin C derivative repairs free radical damage. It’s gentle enough for any skin type, yet totally effective for all of them.

A good face cream reinforces your skin’s moisture barrier, but a great face cream will contribute hydration that helps your skin health improve over time. People are mostly made of water. The chemical comprises about 50 to 60% of our bodies, and is an ingredient in just about every metabolic process we have. Some parts of us have much higher water contents than others—for example, our organs are more aqueous than our bones, but not nearly as aqueous as our blood. Our skin is about 70% water, or more water than not, which is perhaps why so many of our skincare attentions come down to the simple act of keeping as much water in our skin as possible.Hydration is almost synonymous with skin’s most treasured qualities: Its luminosity, its softness, its bounce. And there is not a single skin type on Earth that does not benefit from more hydration, just as there is no dermatologist who would advise you hydrate yourself less. Water is the stuff of life. It’s also the stuff of skin health.For as long as we’ve been chasing glow, we’ve been embracing cream, which helps our skin boost its natural hydration-retention properties. The amount of moisturizer out there in the world is enough to fill an ocean, or at least the Great Lakes. Which face cream is the best at hydrating skin? To find out, you’ll have to learn a little bit about what that means. What does water do for skin?Water is one chemical that is essential to human function. A steady supply of water ensures that our bodies can regulate our temperatures, lubricate our joints, and keep our various internal systems working. Among these critical tasks, water also is a major vehicle by which nutrients and oxygen reach our cells.Hydrated skin is healthy skin. When the skin’s layers are drenched in water, they are less likely to break open and let in potential irritants. Some studies even support the conjecture that drinking adequate water has other health benefits for the skin, like increasing blood flow, although the research isn’t so clear on if these benefits extend to the appearance. Anecdotally, however, you can usually spot the signs of hydration: Skin looks brighter, and plumper. Of course, our bodies require a steady supply of water to keep these processes working—at every biological level. What’s the difference between dehydrated skin and dry skin?Skin that is dehydrated and skin that is dry can look quite similar: Flakes, cracks, and uncomfortable patches. But each is the result of a specific skin mechanism gone awry. Here’s an easy way to think of skin: When it’s dehydrated, you need water. When it’s dry, you need oil.Dry skin is one of the major skin types, and is defined by lower-than-average sebum production. Sebum, colloquially “oil”, is a natural waxy substance we produce that helps “caulk” our skin barriers. Dry skin is also something that can happen to you sporadically, due to environmental factors like wind or sun overexposure, but it’s important to distinguish between having a bout of dry skin versus the dry skin type. Dehydration isn’t a skin type, in large part because it doesn’t describe an intrinsic quality of the skin. All faces need hydration for the same reason that all bodies need water.For many, effective skincare means keeping the oil and water of one’s skin in check. Any imbalances may give you a clue as to what your unique skin type is, but whatever the answer may be, it’s safe to say that keeping your water levels up should be a priority. How do I know if I have dehydrated skin?Dehydrated skin can occur when too much water is lost, and can be observed by pinching a small area of skin: If skin bounces back, it’s hydrated, but if the wrinkle is slow to smooth out, it may be a sign of skin dehydration. By contrast, dry skin results from a lack of skin-sealing sebum. The problem is not necessarily in the water content of your skin, but in the barrier that is supposed to keep water from escaping. When the skin barrier is weak, it’s only a short leap from dry skin to dehydrated skin as water is lost.The best and most efficient way to find out if you have dry skin is to ask your dermatologist or a licensed aesthetician. An expert will be able to identify your skin type on sight. The American Academy of Dermatologists Association recommends looking for visual signs (roughness, peeling, cracking, flaking) and symptoms (itching, pain, irritation) when assessing the dryness of your skin. Left untreated, dryness can lead to openings in the skin, which can invite a host of other problems. Keep skin moisturized and hydrated to ensure its health. Which skincare ingredients hydrate skin?There are tons of ingredients that hydrate skin, primarily by attracting water into skin cells, but also by nourishing your skin barrier to guard against water loss. Some common hydrators too look out for include:Alpha hydroxy acid. Put simply, these acids, known as AHAs, increase the rate of cell renewal. Some AHAs, like lactic acid, are shown to be highly effective hydrators and moisturizers.Camellia oil. Feather-light and fast-absorbing, camellia oil benefits the skin in numerous ways and is a treasured secret in Japanese skincare.Colloidal oatmeal. The calming variant of oatmeal has been used for centuries to relieve the painful itch and irritation common with sensitive skin.Cranberry extract. Full of antioxidants, collagen, and elastin, this extract supports the skin’s healthy appearance, radiance, and barrier function.Hyaluronic acid. This substance occurs in the fluids surrounding cells and tissues, but depletes with age. In skincare formulations, it is unparalleled in both attracting and binding humectants and moisture to the skin.Peony. The blossom moisturizes, soothes, and provides superior antioxidant benefits, thanks to a natural active ingredient: paeoniflorin.Red algae. This type of seaweed is a rich source of natural polysaccharides, lending water-binding properties that deeply hydrate the skin for a healthy-looking appearance.Rice bran. A true superfood, and a source of vitamins, antioxidant compounds, proteins, fats, fibers, ferulic acid, and minerals. Also contains squalene and tocotrienols, compounds known to hydrate and repair skin.Silk. Or liquid silk protein. It’s easily absorbed when infused into skincare and helps skin to look healthier, smoother, and plumper.Squalane. This botanical lipid occurs naturally in the skin's sebum. The ingredient version, isolated from olives, absorbs effortlessly and deeply into the skin to nourish and moisturize skin.What is the best hydrating face cream?A good face cream reinforces your skin’s moisture barrier, but a great face cream will contribute nourishment that helps your skin improve over time. Based on your skin type, this could mean putting oil and water levels in balance. The best hydrating face cream will help draw water into the skin, but also include ingredients that help shore up the skin barrier.Hydration is a core value to Tatcha, which is why the brand’s two best-selling creams both address skin’s water content. Launched in 2017, the Water Cream features wild rose and leopard lily to balance the skin, unclog pores, and minimize excess oil production. Plus the water-burst cream formula also includes our Hadasei-3 Complex, which includes Uji green tea to detoxify and prevent premature aging, Okinawa red algae to seal in moisture, and Akita rice to nourish and hydrate. It’s a superb hydrating cream for all skin types. Then 2019 gave rise to the emollient-rich Dewy Skin Cream was specifically launched to give skin a natural glow and pair beautifully under makeup. The rich, moisturizing cream plumps skin for a dewy, healthy-looking appearance – thanks to antioxidant-packed Japanese purple rice, hyaluronic acid, and Hadasei-3. Dewy is recommended for drier skin but also works for all skin types. Remember that a good face cream is like a glass of water: Glow soon follows.

Though you may not have heard of it, heartleaf is trending up in the world of beauty. But before you dive into heartleaf skincare, you may be curious about the ingredient’s benefits—and whether or not it’s right for you. Heard of heartleaf? The name evokes a perfect image: A long, leafy stem ending in a lovely-shaped frond, rounded on one end and pointed at the other.In its native southeast Asia, carpets of heartleaf spread across forest floors. But this plant can be found all over the world, and even makes a common houseplant that is popular for its low maintenance. In Japan, these heart shaped leaves are called dokudami; their white blooms in May foretell of the coming rainy season. Dokudami leaves have been used to brew palliative teas, as well as ground up to treat burns. Even today, it’s one of the top three folk medicines listed in the Japanese Pharmacopoeia.The skincare brand Tatcha, which takes much of its inspiration from time-honored Japanese botanicals, has taken note of heartleaf benefits when applied to skin. More and more, these leaves are being used for topical formulations. But what, exactly, do they do? What is heartleaf?The long name for heartleaf is heartleaf philodendron, and the long and Latin name for it is Houttuynia cordata. These are resilient vines—tolerant of low light, but preferring sunny, moist climes. With a little water and light, a planted heartleaf vine could produce great lengths—and broad bouquets of its signature heart-shaped leaves.According to houseplant experts, they are some of the easiest plants to take care of. But they’re popular home decor for another important reason: A hardworking, healthy philodendron can remove gaseous toxicants, such as formaldehyde, from an enclosed space. But perhaps because of this, these bitter leaves contain a poisonous sap. Ingestion isn’t lethal, but it’s still recommended to keep heartleaves out of the mouths of children, pets, or yourself. Applied to skin, however, this plant can do more good than harm. What does heartleaf do?The benefits of heartleaf are well documented, and appear in traditions all over the world. Houttuynia cordata herb has been used in ancient Chinese medicine for centuries, and some records even indicate Native Americans once used a heart-shaped leaf in some medicines. In Japan, they were even applied topically, to soothe angry skin; In Korea, heartleaf comprised an acne treatment.According to the INCI Decoder, an online database for cosmetic ingredients, heartleaf is rich in flavonoids, a class of phytochemical compound that has been shown to have “anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antibacterial” benefits for skin. Heartleaf is also rich in more than a few polysaccharides, which help bind water to the skin. It’s also been shown to boost collagen production. At least one study has also shown promise against atopic dermatitis. In other words, it’s a powerhouse ingredient that can help moisturize skin while defending it against aggressors from oxidative stress, inflammation, and bacteria. Benefits of heartleaf for skinHeartleaf is a powerhouse skincare ingredient, and as a result, it’s frequently found in a variety of different skincare formulations. Its specific benefits may depend on where it winds up in your routine. A few common products containing heartleaf may be:Cleansers. When used as a key ingredient for a face cleanser, heartleaf works to keep oil in check—making it attractive for those with oily skin—so the rest of the cleanser can do its job. You can also be assured that a cleanser formulated with heartleaf will be gentle on skin.Toners. Commenters on the r/AsianBeauty subreddit extol the virtues of heartleaf toners, not only for their ability to balance oily skin, but also to quell redness and irritation. Some users have noted a cooling sensation, like that of aloe.Moisturizers. Heartleaf’s history as a sunburn healing botanical demonstrates the ingredient’s powerful soothing ability. Skin that is angry—sensitive, prone to redness, or otherwise reacting—may benefit from a moisturizer infused with heartleaf. Its high content of water-binding polysaccharides also makes it an excellent hydrator, and a welcome addition to any moisturizer’s ingredient list. How often to use heartleafThe average skincare routine occurs twice a day, and most skincare products are formulated for this kind of frequency. But some high-performing ingredients work best when they’re used more less frequently; about every other routine, or less often, depending on your unique skin type. (And when introducing a new ingredient into your routine, it’s a good idea to talk to your dermatologist or licensed aesthetician first.)With all of heartleaf’s skincare benefits, it’s natural to wonder if it’s too powerful for daily use. As a skincare ingredient, however, heartleaf is perfectly gentle. How often you apply heartleaf may depend on the skincare product it appears in—a moisturizer is best used more than a mask, for example. A recommendation will usually appear in the product’s directions. The best heartleaf skincareSoon after it launched in 2017, The Water Cream quickly became one of the best-selling moisturizers in Tatcha’s skincare collection. Its unique, water-burst texture is beloved by many skin types, but especially those with oily skin, who can feel trapped under thick moisturizers. By contrast, The Water Cream provides a veil of all-day moisture—and is clinically proven to refine pores, thanks to Japanese wild rose, a key ingredient. But one of The Water Cream’s less known powerhouse ingredients is Houttuynia cordata, or heartleaf extract. It’s this ingredient that helps make the moisturizer; its antioxidant power acts like azelaic acid to protect from free radicals, helping to brighten and even tone. Its collagen boosting power, plus its calming effect, means it smooths and soothes. And it’s all thanks to the heartleaf; a plant that’s easy to love.