T-House

Over the decade that I’ve been visiting Kyoto and interviewing geisha, there has been one consistent answer to my question, “what’s the most important part of your skincare ritual?” The answer is invariably, bintsuke, a soft wax that she melts in the palms of her hands and massages onto her skin as the last step of her skincare ritual. In addition to creating a smooth poreless canvas to help her makeup last all day, it protects her skin from makeup and pollution while holding moisture in the skin, all at once. I loved the idea of a protective barrier between skin and makeup but having tried the bintsuke wax myself, dreamt of recreating the benefits with a natural material that felt featherlight on the skin instead of waxy. Our scientists at the Tatcha Institute in Tokyo were intrigued by the challenge and so we began researching weightless ingredients that would act as a second skin. We found our dream ingredient in silk. If you have ever worn silk and wondered why it feels as if you’re wearing nothing at all, it is because silk proteins are biosimilar to our own skin’s proteins, down to the amino acid composition. The key to turning silk extracts into a second skin would be marrying three silk extracts together to capture all of the benefits of this wondrous natural material - from holding in essential moisture, to protecting the skin from impurities. After years of refining the formula, The Silk Canvas was born. The first thing I noticed when I began using it was how effortlessly makeup applied, how dramatically it improved color payoff and how my makeup lasted all day whenever I used it - even becoming water resistant. After one week, I was even more delighted to see the texture of my congestion-prone skin changing from not being directly exposed to the oils and pigments in my makeup. For the first time in my adult life, I feel like I have truly foundation-optional skin. It’s our honor to bring you this treasure, evolved from the geisha’s beloved rituals. Spun from the best of both worlds, The Silk Canvas is skin-protecting and makeup-perfecting for healthy, lustrous, filter-finish skin. I hope you love it as much as we do and can’t wait to hear about your results too! The Silk Canvas, $52

I am often asked why, as an American-born Taiwanese woman, I would choose to create a company born from Japanese skincare and heritage. The truth is that skincare is deeply rooted in all Asian cultures, but each country has a unique approach. Asian Beauty as a whole is enjoying immense popularity today, but the distinct rituals and ingredients of each culture stretch back centuries. In particular, we often see Japanese beauty and Korean beauty either confused or grouped together. Both emphasize cleansing the skin, and both have a love for sheet masks, but there are more differences than similarities. To help clarify and distinguish these two rich beauty and skincare routines, I spoke with my friend Charlotte Cho, the founder of the beloved Korean skincare website Soko Glam. What inspired you to create companies rooted in J-Beauty and K-Beauty, respectively? Vicky: When I first visited Kyoto, I was looking for a new approach to beauty. Using modern Western skincare products had given me acute dermatitis, and I was still struggling to get the blistering, bleeding, and rashes under control. I was fortunate to have the opportunity to spend time with a geisha, who shared their rituals with me, which were as simple as they were elegant and effective. Their formulas are what finally gave me my skin back. I fell in love with their simple but powerful skincare ingredients, less-is-more philosophy, and the generations of wisdom that helped to shape them. I created Tatcha to share these treasures with a new audience. Charlotte: As a Korean-American born and raised in California, my skincare routine was nonexistent until I moved to Seoul at age 22. Within a few months of living in skincare-obsessed Korea, it turned my beauty world upside down! I quickly adopted their skin-first philosophy, which was refreshingly seen as not a chore but a part of the lifestyle that they took delight in. All walks of life (men, women, teens and even young children) were very knowledgeable about skincare: from the benefits of hydration, exfoliating regularly and the importance of sunscreen. I was also constantly surrounded by beauty shops, with the most interesting ingredients and packaging everywhere I turned! Once I fell into a multi-step skincare routine, I saw my skin transform from a dull, flaky mess to a bright, dewy glow. This motivated me to share the world of Korean beauty to the West, so I created Soko Glam, a curated selection of the best Korean beauty products. And because education is key to understanding the world of Korean beauty, I launched The Klog, a place to learn about these techniques and read about the latest innovations from Korea. What do you consider the most unique aspect of Korean beauty? Japanese beauty? Vicky: I’m amazed at how quickly Korean beauty innovates, adapting to trends and introducing new ingredients and treatments seemingly overnight. To me, the most unique aspect of Japanese beauty is the minimalist philosophy. Their rituals focus on a few simple steps and a few simple but efficacious ingredients. Charlotte: I love the focus on time-tested ingredients in Japanese beauty. From rice brans to pearls, these ingredients have been used for centuries for brightening, hydrating, and exfoliating the skin. As for Korean beauty, I think the most unique aspect is their creativity and ability to challenge the norms of beauty in pursuit of a better product. For example, cushion compacts have revolutionized the way people applied foundation by creating a new method to transfer just the right amount of the product onto the skin for a flawless, dewy look.. How does skincare relate to or reflect the culture more broadly? Vicky: In Japan, they treat their skincare the same way as their food, their flower arranging and their tidying up: less is more. Sushi is comprised of rice, seaweed and fish, high-quality ingredients minimally manipulated to offer health benefits and delicious flavor. Marie Kondo’s beloved KonMari method focuses on a clean space with minimal decorations. The Japanese skincare philosophy is the same: few steps in a ritual, few simple but powerful ingredients. Charlotte: Korean women are extremely knowledgeable about skincare because it is ingrained at such a young age. They’re also really into beauty since they value outward appearances and making a great first impression. I truly believe this has made them the pickiest cosmetic consumers, and the most adventurous. To meet the demands of Korean consumers, Korean beauty companies are constantly driven to update packaging and formulation. The result is this: super innovative and effective products, from labs to store shelves in just a few months! What aspects of Korean skincare and Japanese skincare are resonating most with the Western audience? Vicky: One of the most surprising things I learned about the geisha was the importance of cleansing the skin. In the west, we focus on treatments, face masks, and anti-aging moisturizers, but often forget to take our makeup off before bed. Even with a busy schedule and performances late into the night, a geisha always removes her makeup with an oil-based cleanser and washes her face with a gentle daily exfoliant at the end of the day. The Japanese skincare routine focuses on cleansing and polishing the skin, two steps that are becoming much more important to the American client. Charlotte: Believe it or not, many have been very inspired by the 10-step Korean skincare routine, even for people who are completely new to skincare and never used more than a moisturizer in their life! The multi-step routine includes double cleansing with an oil cleanser and a water-based cleanser, toner, exfoliator, essence, serum, sheet mask, eye cream, moisturizer, and SPF. But keep in mind, you don’t have to use 10 steps every morning and night—it’s really a sequence of steps that you could potentially use, depending on your skin concerns and needs. I believe Western audiences see the multi-step routine as a way to unwind and focus on the health of their skin to achieve glass skin and a naturally dewy, glowing appearance. Where do you go to be inspired? Vicky: I am inspired each and every time I travel to Kyoto. Whether it’s the colors of the leaves, the designs on the temples, or the wisdom of the geisha, I come away from each visit feeling rejuvenated and brimming. If I can’t travel that far, I take a long, hot shower. Inspiration always strikes in the shower. Charlotte: I am in Seoul at least a third of the year. Despite the frequency of my trips, there is always an exciting trend or innovation to explore in Korea. When I’m not in Korea, New York City is my home base. I try to take every opportunity to go out, meet new people and explore the city to get inspiration. If you’re in your own bubble, you’ll never know what matters to others. Tell us about one of your discoveries, one that embodies the Japanese or Korean skincare philosophy and that you are excited to share with everyone. Vicky: We are so excited to share our treasure, The Water Cream. It brings to life the “less is more” Japanese skincare philosophy with pure, minimal ingredients formulated with everything you need and nothing you don’t. The unique, oil-free formula is a burst of zen for all skin types, transforming upon application to release refreshing hydration and the Japanese superfoods, green tea, rice, and algae. The result is smooth, supple, poreless skin that is perfectly prepped for makeup—making your skin one less thing you need to worry about. Charlotte: Although many people think of Korean skincare products when they think of Korean beauty, there are more innovations in other beauty categories that are starting to bloom. For example, new products such as hair essences are now in the spotlight. There are many different treatments that you massage into your scalp to help you grow healthy, shiny hair. In addition to haircare products, there are innovations within the color cosmetics and makeup categories as well.

Before I began traveling to Kyoto, it often felt like every day was “busy.” It seems like everyone these days feels rushed and preoccupied, but so often that means lots of activity with little movement. In Kyoto, I began to spend some time at the Buddhist temple in the heart of the oldest green tea garden in Japan. A monk there helped walk me through a guided meditation, with a beautiful zen garden providing the perfect backdrop. Taking those few moments to calm my “monkey mind” and remind myself to be present were transformative as I returned home to San Francisco. Now, I make sure to spend some time with him on each trip. On my last visit, we spoke about small changes that can create a big difference. I found myself incorporating his suggestions into my daily rituals, and wanted to share them with you. Practice self-care first thing in the morning. Whether it’s a quick stretch, washing your face or enjoying an actual breakfast, the first thing you should do in the morning is to take care of yourself. Look at nature. Cut through the park on your commute to work or take a Saturday morning stroll through the trees, or even just face a window while doing your emails. Play with your breathing. Meditation is not about thinking of nothing. Instead, choose something to focus on, like your breathing, and think purposefully about taking deep breaths in and out. Vocalize words of happiness. Saying aloud that you are grateful for someone, or you wish someone joy, lifts your mood and someone else’s. Practice forgiveness. Let go of unhappiness by wishing well for people you may not love or agree with. Clean your space. No need for a full overhaul every day—simply wiping down a surface or decluttering your desk is a form of detoxing. Unplug. Take a walk and leave your phone at home, or put it away while getting ready for bed. Even the monk says this is the hardest one for him! Pause for a moment. Most of us don’t feel like we have time for meditation, but even pausing to take a deep breath before we do something helps to focus and be more present. Take a few seconds before eating to better appreciate your meal, or pause before meeting a friend for coffee so you are fully present in the moment. Find a fresh perspective. When we feel stress or anxiety, it can cause us to be stuck in one way of thinking. Take a moment to deconstruct your thoughts. Look at a tree—it always sheds its leaves and twigs, but maintains a strong core. Take care of your face and your hands. Just as a craftsman takes care of his tools, you should be caring for your face and your hands. They get you through your life. Because skincare is such a big part of my life and my work, I wanted to apply these philosophies into my skincare rituals. This is why we created The Essence, a small 7-second ritual to soften skin the way that meditation helps to soften my mind. We believe that when it comes to life and skincare, less is more—and even small changes can create a powerful difference. Whether it’s caring for your skin, walking in nature or spending time with loved ones, I hope that you find small ways to make a big difference in your life.

After a rainy evening in Kyoto, it’s not unusual to spot heart-shaped leaves peeking through narrow spaces between buildings and cracks in the sidewalk. These ubiquitous plants are dokudami (Houttuynia cordata), a medicinal herb famed throughout Asia for its healing benefits. Dokudami is also called juyaku, which means “ten roles” in Japanese—a nickname that highlights how many ailments it helps alleviate. In traditional Japanese medicine, dried dokudami leaves are served as a tea to cleanse the body from the inside. With the arrival of cooler temperatures in the fall, many in Japan, including geisha, still brew cups of dokudami tea as a health drink during the cold and flu season. “Japan’s eldest elephant, Hanako, drinks dokudami tea several times a day .. In fact, Japan’s eldest elephant, Hanako, who is 68, is served dokudami tea several times a day to keep her healthy. Clinical studies have proven the anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory benefits of dokudami. Specifically, dokudami extract has a strong antimicrobial effect against the bacteria most commonly associated with acne. When I learned that, I knew it would be the perfect addition to our Polished Deep Rice Enzyme Powder to help balance acne-prone skin. While dokudami possesses incredible health benefits, it’s also an understated beauty and a symbol of resilience. Dokudami is a stellar example of a botanical ingredient I want to appreciate for its function and its form. Flourishing in spring and lasting through late autumn, dokudami thrives wherever its seeds land, making it a significant part of the landscape in humid climates. Although the leaves appear thin, a single stem of dokudami can withstand the wind and other elements, bending gracefully without breaking or withering. Everytime I see the modest dokudami, it reminds me to keep my mind and eyes open when I’m treasure hunting. Sometimes, an astonishing history and healing power can lie in the most unassuming places—even right in front of you.

Kyoto is magical in countless ways — a blend of ancient heritage and modernity of endless discovery and possibilities. Because I have been lucky enough to visit this special place many times over the years, I'm often asked for advice about where to eat, places to go and things to do. “even geisha love udon...” But the experience I cherish most is just being there, surrounded by the city's serenely beautiful landscapes, quiet, cobblestone streets and the endless charm of everyone I meet. If you are heading to the City of 2,000 Temples for the first time, or even the fiftieth, here are some of the places you might find me: Where to stay Hoshinoya: Tucked away just outside Kyoto, this traditional Japanese-style hotel is accessible only by boat. As you cruise up the river in a wooden boat, the stresses of big-city living fall behind. The hotel staff, the picture of Japanese hospitality, greets new arrivals at the dock and offers an escort into the hotel. With tranquil zen gardens in place of televisions, the grounds are rejuvenating for the soul and spirit. https://hoshinoresorts.com/ja/brands/hoshinoya/ Tawaraya: One of the oldest ryokan in Kyoto, this inn is best known for its many famous visitors and its incredibly attentive staff members, who treat each guest as royalty. The service is beyond impeccable, it’s almost like they know what you would like before you know you want it yourself. Because I am obsessed with books, I love the library the most, and somehow every time I was there a fresh pot of coffee or green tea would appear. The futon there was the most comfortable I have ever slept on, I think it's filled with silk. It was like sleeping on a cloud and it’s seriously one of the things on my bucket list to buy one day. Fuyacho, Oike Sagaru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto, 604. Phone: (075) 211-5566. Where to eat Toraya: This is one of the most peaceful and beautiful places in Kyoto, and I love the way the breeze makes the water ripple. This is the one place I visit every time I go, almost always in the morning before heading home because it is so calming. The seasonal tea and sweets are always as exceptional as the view, which makes for a pretty wonderful combination. https://global.toraya-group.co.jp/   Nishiki Food Market: This 400-meter-long bustling marketplace has been a culinary hub for more than 400 years, filled with vendors selling every kind of food—fish, spices, candy, teas and other delights. Many also serve samples of their specialties, which is a wonderful way to try new things — every day feels like a culinary celebration. The first time I went I was with Nami, and we discovered an amazing knife store run by a family that used to make samurai swords. We also found some secret restaurants tucked behind some of the food stalls where you can get incredible meals for incredible prices. It’s also the place I first learned that you can decorate your soup (because of the colorful baked rice shapes that puff up when added to a soup). https://www.kyoto-nishiki.or.jp/   The Sodoh: Did you know that Japan is also a good place for yummy Italian food too? I didn’t, until I discovered this delightful place. Built in the home of a famous painter, it's a wonderful place to unwind. https://www.thesodoh.com/en/ Gonbei: It can be very hard to spot a geisha while in Kyoto, mostly because they are in training almost all day and very busy with performances and events in the evening. But even geisha love udon, and one of their favorite places to go is this humble noodle shop. The udon is delicious and the place has a charm of its own. Where to go Miyawaki Baisenan: This elegant fan store is practically a fan museum. The selection of elegant, perfectly-made fans is without rival, and the company is known for providing fans to the Imperial family, celebrities, geisha, sumo and kabuki actors for generations. Be sure to check out the room upstairs that is dedicated to tousenkyo, a fan tossing game from the Edo period that is much harder than it looks! https://baisenan.co.jp/   Lisn: I was fascinated to hear that new research suggests that skin has the ability to “smell”— scent receptors in the skin react to aromas like sandalwood or citrus. Lisn is a beautiful, modern incense store that expands far beyond simply scent. The distinct fragrances are also listened to, expanding the senses and inviting the user to be fully present when experiencing the incense. I love visiting this sleek store and exploring all the different varieties they have to offer. https://www.lisn.co.jp/   Kenninji Temple: The oldest Zen temple in Kyoto, this special place honors the founder of the green tea ceremony — which is why tea plants surround the grounds. Art galleries and Zen gardens help to center the visitors and provide tranquil areas for meditation. I particularly love when the peonies are in bloom, lush and as big as my head. In 2002, artist Koizumi Junsaku added a stunning ceiling painting of two colossal dragons, representing the art of communication from the heart.    Minamiza Kabuki Theater: One of the oldest Kabuki theaters in Japan, Minamiza holds an event from the end of November through the end of December called Kichirei Kaomise Kogyo, which are a special series of traditional performances geisha traditionally attend, many even wear hair decorations signed by their favorite performers, symbolic of their shared performance heritage. https://www.kabukiweb.net/   Kyoto canals: One of my favorite Kyoto treasures is actually not “hidden” at all. The canals famously crisscross the city, the water reflecting lanterns of shops and restaurants lining the edges. Cranes are frequent sights in and along the canals. There is always a crane stationed outside my favorite restaurant, who will famously bark for sushi.   Have you been to Kyoto? What were some of your favorite spots?

Just as ubiquitous cherry blossoms symbolize springtime, summer in Japan belongs to the bolder-hued Morning Glories, or asagao. The name means “morning face,” a lovely description of the flowers’ unfurling their trumpet-shaped petals at sunrise to herald the day. Popularized in the Edo Period, they appear frequently in literature and paintings, are celebrated with an annual festival every August and in a thoroughly charming tradition—Japanese elementary students are given Morning Glory seeds at the end of spring to nurture over the summer holiday. When returning to school, the children bring their blossoms back to the classroom where they are dried and used for all kinds of decorations and projects.“...a single flower I spotted years ago inspired the particular hue we now refer to as “Tatcha Purple.”Morning glories are special to Tatcha too, because it was a single flower I spotted years ago that inspired the particular hue we now refer to as “Tatcha Purple.” The color was so vibrant in the summer sunlight it seemed to be glowing, yet there was an artful delicateness to the crown-like opening and funnelform. This simple flower recalled the brilliant blues and purples of silk kimono, and the geisha’s graceful sophistication. The picture I took on my phone that afternoon was studied by our creative team and was the subject of countless conversations.Another lovely thing about Morning Glories is that they remind me of the benefits of getting out of bed sooner rather than later, which is why I planted several of them in my back yard years ago. Seeing them in the morning is one of my favorite ways to th start my day. Since January, I've gone to sleep earlier and wake up at dawn, which has truly changed my life for the better. It makes me more productive and clear-headed, in addition to giving me more time to spend with Alea, cook, and even exercise. Starting my day with calm and quiet helps keep me grounded even when things get hectic later in the day. If you’ve been wanting to get an earlier start, I thought I’d share some of my favorite ways to ensure my “morning face” looks its best:• Create a lovelier waking experience. Waking up on your own without an alarm is a beautiful thing, but it can take time to achieve and is not always practical (especially if you have an early flight). However setting your alarm to ring more quietly, or to the sounds of birds chirping is a gentle way to help your body adjust. There are also clocks with lights that gradually become brighter instead of making noise that work very nicely for this too.• Go to sleep sooner. When you’re well-rested, your body and mind feel and perform better. More sleep affords your body more time to recover and recharge for the day.• Hydrate. In the later phases of sleep, skin tends to lose moisture. Be sure to drink water throughout the day and evening to stay hydrated, but limiting liquids can help you sleep more soundly for longer stretches.• Treat yourself to a relaxing and rejuvenating facial massage. Facial massage helps release tension and improves circulation, leaving skin glowing. Using a light facial oil, such as the Gold Camellia Beauty Oil, and your fingers or a massage tool like the Akari Gold Massager, give yourself a short and sweet massage. One of my favorite massages is the quick Yuyake massage. If you’re using your hands, use your fingertips in a light, tapping motion along your jawline, between the eyebrows, and around your temples.• Use a silk pillowcase. Unlike cotton or polyester blends, silk doesn’t absorb the natural oils produced by the skin. A silk pillowcase will help your skin retain its moisture.• Enjoy a moment with a loved one. Every night, I read with Alea. This nightly ritual is one of my most treasured, and I sleep so much more soundly after tucking her in.Are you an early riser, or trying to wake up earlier? I’d love to hear your tips or tricks on moving up your morning.

Meeting a living, breathing geisha for the first time is a bit like looking at someone who just stepped out of a museum painting. The elaborate kimono and perfect hair capture the eye first, but it’s the iconic white makeup that mesmerizes me the most. The layered pigment, called oshiroi, was one of the main inspirations behind our new sunscreen because of its flawless, smooth-as-silk finish. “Oshiroi is comprised mostly of natural ingredients, including titanium dioxide and zinc oxide ...” During the four-year journey to create a modern-day, translucent version of this complexion perfector, I learned many fascinating things about oshiroi—including its theatrical origins. Centuries ago geisha performed in candle-lit rooms and relied on oshiroi to illuminate their faces. The tradition continues largely unchanged to this day. Oshiroi is comprised mostly of natural ingredients, including titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, which have sun protecting properties. Moist to the touch but solid in its small pan, the makeup is gently brushed onto skin in thin layers to achieve the look. Before applying it, geisha use a thin layer of wax-based primer, called bintsuke to protect their pores and create an even canvas. The combination of primer and makeup allows geisha to wear their performance makeup for hours without any creasing or caking. Its mineral-based ingredients created a protective veil that reflected and scattered the sun’s rays, serving as one of the earliest forms of sun care. From the beginning, I knew our Silken Pore Perfecting Sunscreen would include light-deflecting protection from zinc oxide, which we blended with Japanese Wild Rose extract to tighten pores and leave skin petal-soft. For those who wear makeup, it doubles as a primer so that cosmetics look better longer. For those forgoing foundation, it gives skin a naturally beautiful finish that lasts all day. Even though our version of everyday oshiroi is not as recognizable, it effortlessly imparts the same elegant, skin-perfecting look that geisha mastered long ago.

The geisha have shared many secrets with me over the years, but the ones I treasure most are not the beauty tips—although I love each and every one of those too!—but the things they have mentioned in passing or taught me through elegant example. Whenever I am feeling tired or in need of a boost, I find myself returning to these truths and find myself feeling better before long. 1. A large part of the allure of the geisha stems from the fact that they’re a little bit unknowable. I’m no longer single, but if I were I would definitely take some learnings from that. It's a good thing to be a little bit mysterious. 2. Red lipstick looks good on everyone. 3. True beauty begins in the heart and mind. 4. There are many attractive women out there, but it is hard to not be attracted to someone who is confident, courageous and has a point of view. 5. When it comes to showing some skin—less is more. When in formal kimono almost every inch of their body is covered. The only areas exposed are the hands and the nape of the neck, tantalizing the imagination. 6. Although the West has largely misappropriated the geisha as concubines, they are in fact highly trained professional dancers and musicians, very well educated and very good at what they do. Being excellent at what you do is undeniably appealing. 7. There’s a lot to be said for dressing up. Especially in this land of hoodies and jeans, putting on a dress or something special not only feels good, it celebrates your feminine side. 8. Wash your face every night. Because purification is at the heart of the geisha beauty ritual, taking the time to properly cleanse my face every evening makes me feel like I am getting a truly fresh start. 9. Stay out of the sun! I will walk across the street to stay in the shade and always wear sunscreen. Long before science proved how damaging UV rays are for the skin, the geisha knew that staying out of the sun kept their skin looking healthy. Using a deeply hydrating moisturizer, like the GOLD Camellia Beauty Oil, is one of my favorite ways to end the day. 10. Some of the most attractive, mesmerizing geisha I have known are the ones who were in their 70s and beyond, because they have honed the art of being an interesting person over all those decades. In the West, we are obsessed with youth and beauty, but these women have taught me that beauty is something to be gained over time, not something that is lost over time.